A leaking tap is easier to fix when you first identify where the water is escaping. A steady drip from the spout often points to a worn internal seal, washer or cartridge, while water around the handle, tap base or connections beneath the sink can have a different cause. Dry the area, watch where fresh water appears and check whether the leak continues when the tap is off. These clues help you choose a suitable repair instead of tightening parts at random. If the leak is difficult to reach, the shutoff valve is stuck, or water is damaging a cabinet or wall, stop and contact a handyman or plumber.
Start by wiping the tap, the surrounding sink and the cabinet below it completely dry. Run the tap briefly, turn it off and watch for fresh water. A clean piece of tissue can help reveal a slow leak around a joint that is hard to see. Water can travel along a tap body or pipe, so the dampest spot is not always the point where it started.
Note when the leak occurs. A drip from the spout after the tap is turned off suggests an internal shutoff problem. Water that appears only while the tap is running may be escaping around the handle, spout or a supply connection. If the area stays dry during use but becomes wet later, look for a slow leak beneath the sink or water running from another source.
| Where you see water | What it may indicate | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Spout after the tap is off | Worn washer, seal or cartridge that is not closing fully | Confirm that fresh water continues to drip after water left in the spout has drained |
| Handle or its base | Worn seal, O-ring or cartridge; sometimes water is running down from another part | Dry the handle and body, then watch the exact point where water reappears |
| Tap base or surrounding sink | Spout seal, mounting area or splash from the sink | Check whether it happens only when water is flowing and rule out splashing |
| Pipe or hose beneath the sink | Supply hose, connection or shutoff valve leak | Trace the water carefully and note whether it appears with the tap open or closed |
| Sink or cabinet, source unclear | A tap leak, drain leak or water coming from elsewhere | Test the tap and drain separately, drying the area between checks |
A few drops may remain in the spout just after use, particularly if water is draining from the outlet. That is different from a continuing drip of fresh water. Also, water around the tap base is not automatically a failed tap seal: splashing, a wet countertop or a leaking sink drain can create similar signs.
Taps use different internal mechanisms. Two taps that look alike may take different replacement parts, so appearance alone is not a reliable guide. If you can identify the make and model, use that information to find the correct repair component. Otherwise, a photograph of the tap and, where appropriate, the removed part can help a repair professional or supplier identify a match.
| Tap mechanism | Common clue | Likely repair direction | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression tap | A handle turns to open or close the water; the spout may drip when closed | Inspect and replace the washer or related seals if worn | A damaged valve seat or other worn parts may also need attention |
| Ceramic-disc tap | Often operated with a short turn or lever | Check whether the matching ceramic-disc cartridge or seals need replacing | A standard rubber washer is not necessarily the correct part |
| Cartridge mixer | A single lever commonly controls flow and temperature | Identify and replace the cartridge or its seals if the mechanism is the source | Cartridges vary by model and may not be interchangeable |
| Ball-type mixer | A single handle moves over a rounded housing | Inspect the model-specific seals, springs or ball assembly | Reassembly can be difficult if parts are worn, damaged or incorrectly fitted |
This table is a starting point, not a diagnosis. A tap may have more than one worn part, and manufacturers use different designs. If you are unsure which mechanism is fitted, avoid buying a part based only on the tap’s general style. Taking a clear photo, recording any model details and asking for help can prevent a repair attempt with an unsuitable component.
These steps are best suited to a straightforward repair where the leak is accessible and the tap’s design is clear. Stop if a part is stuck, the body or pipework looks corroded, or the tap begins to move at the sink. More force can damage the fixture or a connection behind it. If water is near an electrical outlet or appliance, keep clear and get appropriate help.
A worn washer is a common cause in a compression tap, but a cartridge or other sealing component may be responsible in a different design. Replacing a washer at random will not fix a cartridge tap, and a new washer may not solve the problem if the valve seat is damaged. Identify the mechanism first, then replace only the relevant component with a compatible part.
Water around a handle can point to a worn seal or cartridge, while a leak around a swivel spout may involve seals at its base. Before dismantling anything, run the tap briefly and see whether water is escaping under pressure or running down from above. If the area gets wet only when water splashes onto the sink, the tap itself may not be the source.
Dry the connection and observe it while the tap is off, then again while water is running. This can help distinguish a supply-side leak from water that has travelled down from the tap or sink. Don’t keep tightening a connection without knowing how it is assembled: overtightening can damage a fitting, seal or hose. If the leak continues, shut off the supply and arrange a repair.
Deposits or debris at an aerator can cause an uneven or splashing flow, but cleaning the outlet usually will not fix a tap that continues dripping when shut off. Treat a flow problem and a shutoff leak as separate symptoms. If the tap has a removable outlet part, check the manufacturer’s instructions before removing it and return it in the same arrangement.
A capable homeowner may be able to replace an accessible washer or a straightforward, correctly identified cartridge. Calling a handyman is sensible when the repair is minor but the tap is unfamiliar, difficult to dismantle or awkward to reach. A plumber may be the better choice for persistent leaks, damaged pipework or repairs involving concealed plumbing. The work a handyman can undertake varies by location, so check that the person you hire is qualified for the job required.
If a repair does not hold, avoid repeatedly tightening parts or replacing components by guesswork. The underlying cause could be a damaged seat, a mismatched cartridge, a failing connection or more than one worn component. A handyman or plumber can inspect the whole assembly and advise whether repair or replacement is more practical.
Before booking, describe where the water appears and whether it leaks when the tap is off, while running, or both. Share photos of the tap, the underside of the sink and any visible model information. Ask whether the visit includes diagnosis, the repair part and testing, and whether the provider will discuss replacement if the tap cannot be repaired. These details make it easier to compare quotes without assuming that every leaking tap needs a new fixture.
Repair is often a reasonable option when the fault is limited to an accessible, identifiable component and compatible parts are available. Replacing the tap may make more sense when the body is damaged, parts cannot be matched or several components are failing. The decision depends on the tap’s condition, access and the cost of parts and labour; ask for the reason behind the recommendation rather than choosing solely by the initial estimate.
Usually, tightening the handle is not a reliable fix for a worn washer, cartridge or seal. Excessive force can damage the handle or internal parts. First locate the leak and identify the tap mechanism.
Water may be escaping around a handle, spout seal or supply connection under flow, but splashing can look similar. Dry the area and watch where fresh water appears while the tap is open. If the source is beneath the sink or hard to trace, isolate the supply and seek help.
No. Some taps use cartridges or ceramic-disc mechanisms rather than a replaceable compression washer. The correct part depends on the tap’s design and model.
No. Water may come from a supply hose, shutoff valve, sink drain or another nearby connection. Dry the cabinet and test the tap and drain separately to help locate the source.
Repair is worth considering when the fault is clear, the tap is otherwise in good condition and the correct part is available. Replacement may be more practical if the tap body is damaged or a repair would require several hard-to-source parts. Ask the repairer to explain both options before authorising work.
For a leaking tap, the most useful first step is to trace the water rather than tighten parts at random. Match the likely cause to the tap’s mechanism, isolate the supply before dismantling it and stop if a valve or fitting resists. When the source remains unclear or water is reaching the surrounding structure, arrange a professional repair.
