A persistent drip is a reason to inspect a tap, not automatically replace it. To fix a leaking tap, first identify where water appears: the spout, handle, tap base or connections beneath the sink. Each location points to different parts, such as a washer, cartridge, O-ring or supply connection. Before removing anything, shut off both hot and cold supplies and confirm that the tap no longer flows. Then identify the tap type and replace only the part that is worn or damaged. If the shutoff valve is stuck, the fitting is corroded, or the leak continues after a careful repair, contact a qualified handyman or plumber.
Dry the tap and the surrounding sink, then watch for the first place that becomes wet. A leak can travel along the tap body or underside of the sink, so the wettest spot is not always where the water started. Use a dry tissue to check around the spout, handle, base, mounting area and visible supply connections.
Check the tap both when it is fully closed and while it is running. Water coming from the spout while the tap is on is normal; water appearing around the handle or base only during use can help narrow down the fault. A few drops left in the spout immediately after turning the tap off may simply drain out, but a repeated drip after the tap is closed points to an internal sealing problem.
| Where water appears | Possible cause | Useful next check |
|---|---|---|
| Spout after the tap is closed | Worn washer, valve seal or cartridge | Identify whether the tap uses a compression valve or a cartridge assembly. |
| Around the handle or stem | Worn O-ring, packing or cartridge seal | Check whether the leak occurs while the tap is running, closed, or both. |
| At the base of the tap | Worn spout seal or water running down from another point | Dry the body and base, then trace the first point where moisture returns. |
| Under the sink | Loose or damaged supply hose, connection or tap seal | Use a tissue to check each connection while the tap is running. |
These are clues, not a guarantee: tap designs vary, and a leak can have more than one cause. If water seems to come from the tap body itself rather than a replaceable joint or seal, stop and get advice before dismantling it.
Two-handle taps that open by turning a handle often use a compression valve with a washer. A single-handle mixer usually controls flow and temperature through a cartridge or ceramic-disc assembly. Some taps have different internal designs even when they look similar, so appearance alone is not enough to choose a replacement.
| Tap design | Typical clue | Repair may involve | What to verify |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression tap | One or two handles turn to open and close the water. | A washer, valve seal or worn valve seat | Washer size and shape, and the condition of the seat |
| Single-handle mixer | A lever moves to control flow and temperature. | A matching cartridge or related seal | Tap make, model and cartridge fit |
| Ceramic-disc design | Often operates with a short turn or lever movement. | A compatible disc cartridge or manufacturer-specific seal | Assembly type and orientation before removal |
Before taking the tap apart, look for a brand name or model marking on the tap, its packaging or any installation paperwork. If you remove a component, take a clear photo first and keep clips, screws and seals together. A replacement that looks close may still differ in length, shape or alignment. Take the old part and any useful photos to a plumbing-parts supplier or ask a handyman to identify it.
Look for isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the sink. Close both, using the valve’s normal control without forcing it. Some valves turn; others use a lever. Open the tap to release pressure and check that the water has stopped. If there are no usable local valves, you may need to shut off the property’s main water supply. If you cannot identify or operate the shutoff safely, get help rather than starting the repair.
Do not continue if a shutoff valve leaks, will not turn, or appears badly corroded. Forcing it can cause a second problem beneath the sink. If a leak is close to electrical equipment or a power outlet, avoid touching wet electrical items and seek appropriate help.
Once the water is off, the general approach is to remove the handle and any trim that covers the valve, then inspect the internal component. The exact steps vary by tap. Look for a small cap or screw on the handle; it may need a screwdriver or Allen key. Do not pry hard against the finish or force a stuck handle. If the design is unfamiliar or access is difficult, pause and consult the tap instructions or a professional.
A persistent drip from a closed compression tap often points to its washer or valve seat. If the washer is visibly worn, replacing it with the correct type may solve the problem. A damaged or uneven seat can prevent a new washer from sealing, so replacing the washer alone may not be enough.
On a mixer or ceramic-disc tap, the internal cartridge or its seals may be responsible instead. Do not assume that a washer kit will fit. Match the replacement to the tap, and avoid mixing parts from different assemblies.
A leak around the handle can come from a worn stem seal, packing or cartridge seal. Tightening a part without knowing its purpose may make the handle stiff or damage the assembly. A leak at the base may come from a worn seal around a swivelling spout, but water from the handle or tap body can also run down and collect there. Dry the tap completely and trace where moisture returns before deciding what to replace.
Check the supply hoses and their connections with a dry tissue while the tap is running, then check again with it closed. If a connection is visibly loose and the fitting is in good condition, a small, careful adjustment may help; stop if it resists or begins to twist. Do not tighten a hose by pulling against the pipe or shutoff valve. A split hose, leaking valve, damaged pipe or persistent connection leak is a good reason to call a handyman or plumber.
After reassembly, open the hot and cold supplies slowly and test the tap through its normal range. Check the spout with the tap closed, then run both temperature settings and look around the handle, base and underside of the sink. Wipe the area dry and use a tissue to spot small drops that are easy to miss.
If the tap drips again, do not keep tightening parts or replace several components at random. Turn off the water and check whether the replacement was the correct part, whether it was seated in the right orientation, and whether another seal or the valve seat is damaged. If the cause remains unclear, a professional inspection can prevent further damage.
A straightforward washer or accessible cartridge replacement may suit someone who is comfortable with basic repairs and can identify the correct part. A handyman can be a practical option for an accessible tap repair, especially if the issue involves replacing a standard component or checking a connection. Ask whether the person has experience with your tap type and whether the repair or replacement part is included in the estimate.
Choose a plumber or another suitably qualified professional if the supply pipe or shutoff valve is faulty, the tap is wall-mounted or difficult to access, parts are seized or corroded, or the leak continues after the likely seal has been replaced. A professional is also the safer choice if you cannot isolate the water reliably or suspect the tap body or pipework is damaged.
Repairing a tap is not always the sensible option. If the body is cracked, compatible parts are unavailable, or several components have deteriorated, ask for a repair-versus-replacement assessment. Before authorising work, confirm what the quoted service covers, including diagnosis, parts and any follow-up if the leak persists. Renters should contact their property manager or landlord before dismantling a fixture.
No. Shut off the hot and cold supplies before removing the handle or internal parts, then open the tap to release pressure and confirm the flow has stopped. If you cannot locate or operate a safe shutoff, ask a professional to help.
The washer may be the wrong size or type, may not be seated correctly, or the valve seat may be worn or damaged. On a mixer tap, the fault may instead be in a cartridge or another seal. Turn off the water and check the tap design and removed part before trying another replacement.
No. A washer may be the cause in some compression taps, but mixer and ceramic-disc taps often use cartridges or different seals. A leak around the handle, base or supply connections can also come from a different component.
Not automatically. If the body is sound and the faulty part is available, a targeted repair may be appropriate. Replacement is worth considering when the tap body is damaged, compatible parts cannot be found, or a professional determines that repair is impractical.
Call a handyman or plumber if a shutoff valve will not work, pipework or a hose is damaged, the tap is difficult to dismantle, or the leak returns after a correctly fitted part is installed. Stop sooner if you are unsure how to isolate the water or safely access the fitting.
To fix a leaking tap without replacing parts unnecessarily, trace the first point where water appears, identify the tap mechanism and shut off the supply before dismantling it. Replace only a confirmed faulty component, then test the tap and the connections beneath the sink. If the source is unclear or the repair does not hold, arrange a professional assessment before the leak causes further trouble.
